A reader got in touch with me regarding my previous post, Quick sh script cronjob to fix user homes permissions on Synology. That script was initially intended to fix user homes file ownership, but this reader shared a script that uses the synoacltool to fix the Access Control List on directories.
A few thoughts regarding this script:
First, it was mentioned that these issues may be fixed in the latest DSM release. If you’re still experiencing file ownership and permissions issues, please feel free to use the solution linked to above or posted below.
Second, the script linked to above and the script below take different approaches on the problem. You may find a solution in one, or you may elect to use both.
Third, it was mentioned that this was a “one and done” solution. Due to the changing nature of filesystem content, I don’t believe that to be the case. You may want to save this as a sh script and run it as a scheduled task, or you may want it to run on every boot up. If you decide you want to run it on every boot, edit (or create) the file /etc/rc.local, and paste the below. I can’t say for certain whether this script is preserved on an upgrade, though this page strongly suggests that it would be preserved.
I don’t have a Synology unit right now to test this on, so I can’t offer any insight other than what I’ve shared above.
Here’s the script:
synouser --enum all > user.list
sed -i 's/\\/\\\\/g' user.list
cat user.list | while read line
echo -n "$line: "
USERDIR=`synouser --get "$line" | grep "User Dir"`
if [ $? != 0 ]; then
echo "user: [$line] not found"
HOMEPATH=`echo "$USERDIR" | cut -d'[' -f2 | cut -d']' -f1`
synoacltool -get-archive "$HOMEPATH" | grep is_support_ACL > /dev/null 2>&1
if [ $? != 0 ]; then
echo "[$HOMEPATH] not support ACL or not exist"
synoacltool -get "$HOMEPATH" | grep -F "user:$line:allow:rwxpdDaARWcCo:fd--" > /dev/null 2>&1
if [ $? = 0 ]; then
echo "[$HOMEPATH] exist user's Full Control ACL"
synoacltool -add "$HOMEPATH" "user:$line:allow:rwxpdDaARWcCo:fd--"
Any feedback is welcome and appreciated. Thank you!
I’ve seen issues with the Asus T100 where the Wi-Fi will frequently not reconnect after coming out of standby, hibernate, or a power off. Toggling airplane mode or rebooting the device will fix it, but not always the first time.
I found a fix for this, after reviewing the fix for frequently disconnecting Bluetooth devices, and the issues appear related.
Again, go into device manager and right-click the wireless network adapter, and click Properties. Go to the Advanced tab and change Minimum Power Consumption to Disabled.
After doing this, no more Wi-Fi issues!
I found this fix specifically when looking for a way to fix disconnection issues with a Bluetooth mouse, but it fixes a multitude of issues as well.
Asus T100 frequently disconnects Bluetooth devices in an overly-aggressive effort to save power. Fix this by disabling Bluetooth power management.
First, make sure you have all the up-to-date drivers from Windows Update and from ASUS Live Update.
Next, open Device Manager and right-click Bluetooth Radio, then click Properties, Power Management tab, and uncheck “Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power” as shows in the screenshot below.
That’s all. After doing that, no more BT device disconnects!
A frequently used tool to identify Windows issues is the System File Checker, or sfc. It’s usually run as such:
This will scan through your system files and tell you if any files are corrupt. But — is there an easy way to repair those corrupt files, other than doing a full re-install? Turns out, there is: Connecting to the Internet, and using dism, as shown below:
dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth
See below for a copy-paste log that I did on the system I’m currently using to write this post. SFC identified corrupt files, I ran dism, and then re-ran sfc.
C:\WINDOWS\system32>sfc /scannow Beginning system scan. This process will take some time. Beginning verification phase of system scan. Verification 100% complete. Windows Resource Protection found corrupt files but was unable to fix some of them. Details are included in the CBS.Log windir\Logs\CBS\CBS.log. For example C:\Windows\Logs\CBS\CBS.log. Note that logging is currently not supported in offline servicing scenarios. C:\WINDOWS\system32>dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth Deployment Image Servicing and Management tool Version: 6.3.9600.17031 Image Version: 6.3.9600.17031 [==========================100.0%==========================] The restore operation completed successfully. The component store corruption was repaired. The operation completed successfully. C:\WINDOWS\system32>sfc /scannow Beginning system scan. This process will take some time. Beginning verification phase of system scan. Verification 100% complete. Windows Resource Protection did not find any integrity violations.
Credits to this forum for having the original post of the fix.
Here’s a question for my Amateur Radio friends out there:
How important are RF power considerations when operating mobile HF?
Here’s why I’m asking: I’m looking into HF, and mobile HF is going to be an option I explore. My owners manual (see below) says to keep the power below 10 watts for CB (29 MHz). I currently operate VHF up to
50 watts with no issues, but I know 2 meter and 10/11 meter are well different.
I’ve heard second- and third-hand stories of people killing their ECMs from high power output, so that’s why I’m throwing the question out. I’m not keen on making my VW into a 5-figure paperweight, and I’m okay with keeping it under 10 watts, but I want to know your thoughts and opinions. Note: I’m looking for information strictly related to the possible effect on the vehicle electronics, not human RF exposure. That’s a different topic entirely.
My intention is to connect the radio’s power supply directly to the vehicle battery (both positive and negative), and use a mount that provides electrical grounding of the antenna as well.
Here’s the page from my owners manual:
So let me know your thoughts and opinions below. Post your call only if you’re comfortable doing so. Please let me know your thoughts, what bands you operate mobile on, what power levels, and what (if any) your installation considerations are.
Storage Spaces driver.
Symptoms of this issue:
- Hard drive activity light solid on
- Occasional disk hangs
- Event ID 129 in Windows logs storahci “Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort0, was issued.”
- Go to Power Options > Advanced > PCI Express > Link State Power Management and set it to Off.
- Reboot the server
Fully resolved the issue for me.
There are two ways to fix this, and I found I had to do both steps to make it work.
1) Open Internet Explorer. Go to Tools > Internet Options > Advanced > Reset and reset all settings. Try the update again.
2) Open an administrator-level command prompt, and run the following:
FORFILES /P %WINDIR%\servicing\Packages /M Microsoft-Windows-InternetExplorer-*9.*.mum /c "cmd /c echo Uninstalling package @fname && start /w pkgmgr /up:@fname /norestart"
gpart create -s gpt adaX
gpart add -t freebsd-ufs adaX
Also reference this post for more info:
Miklor has an excellent tutorial which explains the situation with counterfeit Prolific cables, and how to get the correct driver installed and working.
In short, it’s simply a matter of installing the correct cable driver (the older Prolific driver), plugging in the cable, and then choosing the correct driver in Device Manager. In Linux, the cables seem to work fine with no issues.
There are a couple of additional things to keep in mind:
1) After installing the working driver, make sure you continue to plug the cable into that same USB port. Plugging it in to a different port will cause the Windows driver to reload. If you do, just update it with the working driver again.
2) Windows Update may offer an update to your “outdated” Prolific driver. Just block or hide this update.
3) If you plug the Prolific cable into your radio with the wrong driver installed, the LED will turn red. You ARE transmitting a carrier. Keep that in mind. Make sure your radio is tuned to an in-band, unused frequency before plugging the cable into your radio if you’re not sure of the driver situation, or just check Device Manager, as the wrong driver will show a yellow exclamation mark.
Here’s a photo of the led gone red from the wrong drivers installed:
Have anything else to add to this? Please feel free to leave a comment below. Thank you!
However, the radio exhibits some really strange display issues when you tune above 499Mhz. Take a look at the two videos below for a demonstration.
It’s also worth noting that the UV-B6 antenna that mine came with was only indicated for use up to 480Mhz. Yours may be the same.
If you have anything to share about this, please do so in the comments section below. Thank you!